I know from my quads video build guide to use the parts of the power board nearest to me, but other than that I’m just confused.
It’s a run cam owl plus, and an SP3 48Ch Video Transmitter https://www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/sp3-48ch-video-transmitter/
Here’s the build tutorial for my quad, i’m a complete noob at this.
PS - Before this I haven’t touched a soldering iron in 16 years, and I also don’t think the one I got was the best shape for the job. But I’ve tested it and it flies.
Looking at the board I guess the camera is just connected to where it says cam straight forward.
I presume CAM and VTX just connect to each other, so the signal through those and go to where it says VIDEO IN on the diagram?
Then the red wire from Vout VCC to positive on the power board, but which black wire to the negative?
Hi
In the CAM box of 3 pads connect camera wires like this: red to +, black to - , yellow to CAM
You also need to solder jump the two pads to the right on the PDB that will put 12volts onto the camera (see image below) If you are flying with a 3S battery pack you will not get the full12volts but what you do get (10.5 to 12.5v) will be filtered for a cleaner video signal.
Connect the video transmitter in a similar manner, +,-,VTX again link the pads, on the left, in the same way.
Basically the camera video signal goes in on the CAM pad, is mixed with the OSD data on the board and then leaves on the VTX pad to the transmitter. CAM and VTX do NOT connect together
Hope all this helps
Cheers
Steve 
Thanks, I just meant the signal goes from cam to VTX, but I was presuming it was plain data.
The build tutorial video suggests using 5v for the camera, and VCC for the transmitter.
Now i’m worried about that.
Got the transmitter wired up like this
Getting no lights though when I power it all up, nothing.
Hi, Whilst the camera spec is voltage range 5-22v I have had cameras sharing the same innards that do not work consistently below 5.8v hence my suggestion of 12v which sits well in that range.
The spec also says 2S to 5S packs and a 2S is nominal 7.4v
IMHO 5v is too low.
Cheers
Steve
ah, so basically I should be using the pins on the opposite side from the signal to power it with vcc.
That image was useful, if only it came with the instructions. I’ll try it tonight thanks.
@Aegrim
Hi
Not quite, I’m assuming your red/black/white wires in your photo into the SP3 are from your PDB the VTX connections.
Now having seen the arrangement for this SP3 transmitter, that it gets it’s own power, you do not need the red wire from PDB to SP3. i.e. just run a black and white from PDB + & VTX pads to the SP3 (video and ground)
You need also to ADD black and red wires at the other end of SP3 connector to put the battery power into the board
I think I might be in danger of confusing you, but mainly me, 
If you still have problems I’ll do a complete diagram for you.
Cheers
Steve
Haha yes sorry, I meant the pins on the sp3 connector on the far side away from the signal to the pdb. Not where I’ve currently got them.
I stupidly depinned it before testing it, there’s a spare though and I might be able to repair this one as well. I’ll try drawing a diagram on my phone.
Note the reds and blacks might be the wrong way around in my drawing.
I’m still connecting the camera to my pdb right?
You’ve confused me with the bit about only needing 2 wires then I think something about the ones I’m talking about.
Build, fly, repair … repeat …
@stevietee10
I don’t know what happened it seemed to just flip over and go really hard into the ground. It dug itself in (It was actually stuck in the ground and needed pulling out) and the weight of the battery pulled on the power wires and wrenched the whole stack of 3 circuit boards out. The PDS circuit moving in one direction pulled a speed controller and detached it from a motor. When I got to it I rushed to pull the power out and could see it sparking.
Gave the flight controller a good blowing with compressed air in case of moisture and tested it in clean flight and it seems all right. Maybe a bit twitchy but I don’t know if that was just my hand twitching or even if it was any worse than before.
Two engines are caked with mud, all but one prop are bent and all haggard. An unused socket on the transmitter got knocked out but was still attached by the actual connections on the board.
Most of it is intact, just not where it originally was when it took off but I’m not sure if the PDB or transmitter are bricked. I need to find some way to clean the two engines caked in mud, or replace them.
You think some of it will be ruined since it was sparking/arcing electricity?
Hi David
So sorry to hear your crash news. It’s a real deflator when that happens so soon after the build.
At the bottom of the motors is a either a circlip or a screw. If you remove that carefully (you will need to reuse the clip and it MUST be in good condition to fit back) you can then lift the bell housing off the motor body.
Be careful the magnets are strong and can trap your fingers and that is painful
You can then clean the motors and reassemble. The bearings are precision and sealed so keep them in good order, if damaged you will need to replace but probably cheaper to get a new motor
Hope this helps
Steve
You have the transmitter wired wrong. VCC is for voice, not video. First three wires are for the camera. White for signal, next is red and black TO camera. At the far end of your transmitter, the last two wires, is the power and ground for the transmitter. The two wires next to it, red and black, are for voice. i have the same transmitter.
A poster above said you do not connect the camera directly to the transmitter. YES YOU CAN. The downside is you will not have any OSD coming from the board. Battery power, telemetry, etc.
First three wires to camera, video out, power to camera, ground for camera. next two wires are for sound if you really want to hear the whine of your quad the entire time you have a headset on, the last two are power and ground for the transmitter.
Spent two weeks building it.